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I've been climbing sport for about a year and a half, some multi-pitch. Easy to follow diagrams/instructions. Table of contents: The Basics, Rescue Knots, Escaping a Belay, Descending, Ascending, Raising, Passing Knots, Scenarios and Solutions, Getting Outside Help (33 pages of 29 scenarios/solutions).
This book has been just right for me. Concise, well organized chapters that build on each other logically. Just started leading trad this season, thought it was time to learn how to manage accidents/crises.
The authors do a nice job of directing you to other resources outside the scope of the book. I have Freedom of the Hills, but this covers self-rescue in more depth ("self" means your party, as opposed to calling for search and rescue). It touches just briefly on ice climbing/big wall, covering topics that are applicable to most types of climbing.
Set up to read straight through but also easy to reference specific topics/knots. Nice mix of photos/illustrations.
Ok, I'm fairly new to outdoor climbing, and if I got into some of the situations described here, I would just hang on the rope and scream like a little girl until someone more experienced told me what to do.That said, if you're willing to spend several hours practicing the techniques, this book will boost your confidence considerably. I think it's more applicable to multipitch climbs, however the techniques are applicable to rappelling as well.Don't expect to read it and know how to traverse a knot while rappelling. Until you try the techniques a few times and get familiar, you shouldn't trust them while on the rock.
This book does a great job of teaching all the minimalist tricks climbers use to complete the tasks industrial rope workers would use mechanical devices for.While most of the information will be familiar to experienced rope workers there are a few bits of information which are real gems. If you're a male expect to roll your eyes a lot. It belongs on every climbers/rat's bookshelf for this reason.Criticisms: 1) The illustrations are great, the pictures are useless and as a result some knot techniques are indecipherable.2) There are many scenarios used to hone your skills, seems more like filler.3) On a artistic note the reverse gender specific format is so contrived and over the top that by the time I was finished the book I was sick of the authors sexism. I suppose using exclusionary language is an attempt at revenge but in the case of all the rescues it suggests women spend a lot of time needing rescue. Also there was some unprofessional jargon, such as differentiating anchors as being "bomber" or not. oh well, thats climbers for ya.
How best to respond when your climbing team gets into difficulty. Nearly thirty rescue scenarios are outlined with solutions involving as few as two climbers. First, read CLIMBING SELF-RESCUE: IMPROVISING SOLUTIONS FOR SERIOUS SITUATIONS from cover to cover. It holds the keys to using the team's abilities to effect self-rescue, pairing illustrated techniques with insights on using them in all conditions, from rock to snow and ice. No other book holds the solution-oriented scenarios of CLIMBING SELF-RESCUE: it should be on the shelves of any serious, regular climber.Diane C. DonovanCalifornia Bookwatch
If you are just getting into rock climbing, I strongly advise seeking a mentor and purchasing this book to complement the side of climbing that many people overlook, self-rescue. 29 rescue scenarios are explored for your better understanding of rescue techniques.
Excellent detail and a plethora of photographs to illustrate each point. I concur with the previous review.
Not only do they give qualitative data, but they included quantitative data compiled from various sources to help you understand the strengths of knots and their weaknesses as well. This book includes a section on ascending out of a glacier crevasse as well.
Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis have done a lot of research and work to put this book together to include such detail as a flow chart for you to methodically determine which rescue scenario to persue. If you have Fasulo's book, this will be a great addition to your rescue book collection.
Practice, practice, practice, then have someone critique your rescue skills.
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